A barbecue in a favela

I had heard about the favela's in Brazil before I even got there. Giant hillsides stacked sky high with shacks piled one on top of another. There are shantytowns in other South American countries, and possibly just as poor areas in the US, but the striking in your face-ness of them in Brazil is why they are so well known. Some of the favelas have even been in Hollywood movies, such as City of God, about a favela in Rio with the same name (Cidade de Deus).

Here is a shot of the bus ride into Salvador, Brazil. The bus passed about 10 minutes of these favelas on either side before making it into the city center near the water.


Here is a photo taken at the bottom of one favela in Rio. We went here in February to pick up our costumes for the Carnival parade. In fact, the 'samba school' I danced with, which are usually neighborhood based, was for one of the favelas, Rocinha.



Anyways, on my third trip back to Rio, my friend Anderson invited me, Brian, and Brian's family to his place for a Sunday barbecue. Anderson actually lives in the favela Rocinha.

Not only was it my first time in this favela, but it was Brian's as well. His parents had been in the middle of a favela, maybe one or two times in their lives, but even they said this was unusual for them.

We took a taxi from Brian's place to a parking lot at the foot of the favela. Anderson was going to meet us there before we all headed up in a group with accompaniement. About 10 other family friends also met us at the foot of Rocinha.

After everyone had arrived and was ready, Anderson came down from his house, met us, and we looked for a taxi up. At the foot of the favela's were both motorcyle taxis, and large van taxis, looking to shuttle people up. The 12 of us all piled into a van taxi, and we were headed up the favela.

There is only one road going up through Rocinha. It is a windy, curvy, steep road. Think Lombard street in San Francisco. There were motorcycles zooming up as we navigated the street upwards in the van. About halfway up the favela, only about a 2 minute ride (but a large change in elevation), we all piled out of the van.

I then realized I had basically stepped into a separate world. The streets are lined with houses wall to wall. Then the most unexpected happened. Instead of just entering a house, we went down a sunken stairwell jammed between a few houses. These led to more stairs, which led to more pathways, and more stairs, and more narrow passageways going up, down left, and right. To me, it was like a maze between the houses, with entrances to peoples places all over the place. There was even an outside bar at one point on the side of the stairwell.

Anways, we filed our way in a long line and zigzagged our way to Anderson's place. He had a 2 story house where he lived with his family. The barbecue was on the top floor, which was basically a giant outdoor patio, it was real nice. The patio had an incredible view from halfway up of Rocinha.

Anyways, the barbecue was awesome, they cooked TONS of great food. There was about 20 people or so there, and they were celebrating the return of Anderson's sister, who had studied for a year in Germany.

Anderson was able to tell me many interesting things about the favela. For example, I asked about why everyone had a giant water tank on top of their house. I still don't understand the details of this, but water is free (or stolen) from the residents of the favela. I am not sure how it is pumped into each family's tank. But the rest of Rio ends up paying for the water.

Electricity is often stolen, in one form or another. Many people pay the authority to turn the meter back so they pay for electricity, but just pay less. Also, I had assumed everyone owned their own place. But, the places are actually rented out.

Anderson specifically told me not to take pictures while on the street in Rocinha. There would be people looking and watching. Drug dealers, most likely, and in general people who would not want their identity seen. He said it could be dangerous to take photos for this reason. In his place, from his porch, though, it was perfectly fine to take photos (and I took alot). For this reason, though, I don't really have any photos inside the favela outside of the view from Anderson's place.

When we left, we proceeded through the cooridoors & walkways, back up to the main windy street. There was music blasting from someones car to the side of the street, and we waited there for about 10 minutes to take another van taxi down as a group. Brian saw a guy with a giant gun on a motorcycle riding down (but he did not tell us until later that day as he did not want to say anything).

In general, the favela is almost it's own world, separate from Rio. The government basically has no involvement. The police do not enter unless they want to arrest a specific individual. Each favela has their own sub laws and unwritten laws. A good example is motorcycle-taxi's are illegal in Rio, but completely unchecked & common in the favela's. But different favela's have different laws. More or less, however, it is not safe for foreigners to walk through a favela. Sadly enough, there is a large industry of poverty tourism there. Pay 100 bucks, and someone will drive you up to the top of the favela and walk you down. There are, however, a few foreigners living inside the favela, usually teaching English, and that is understandably ok & safe.

Why doesn't the government do anything about it? Well, that's a question not even Anderson could really answer. It would require immense changes in many different areas that can't be done overnight. For me, however, it was one of the most interesting, educating, and unique experiences of the entire trip. And one heck of a barbecue!



The best shot I could get in the passageway while walking (we are exiting the walkway to the main road here):


How electricity works? Your guess is as good as mine. There is a footpath below, actually:






The blue bins are water tanks:


Yum! Barbecue


The festa:




Anderson & his Dad:


Possibly my favorite food of the entire trip, chicken hearts!


Me, Brian, Sergio:


Linguica:

The last days of Rio

So as I said, I arrived at the hostel in Rio de Janeiro, for my 3rd trip there, about an hour before the Chicago amigos. The day before, I had received my ‘official’ acceptance letter from Ghent University to the master fire protection program. Oddly enough, the letter said ‘September 2010’. At that time, I was not too worried. I figured she made a mistake, since our previous 10 emails had mentioned September 2011. So I just sent her an email to clarify this.

Well, I had a big surprise waiting in Rio. After I checked into the hostel, I checked my email, and found a pleasant little email from the coordinator saying that it was in fact September 2010! I was quite frustrated as to how such a big detail could be overlooked. Plus, after I read that, my head just started spinning for at least the next 24 to 48 hours at the quantity of things and changes that needed to be done immediately and in the next few months before I arrive in Scotland to become a student with less than 60 days notice. I didn’t really know where to start.

After reading that, I think I needed to cool off a bit and think slower. The sun was just starting to set, so I walked a few blocks to the Copacabana beach, bought a Brahma, and sat in the sand while watching the sun set. I think I’ll remember that for awhile. I was just trying to think of the things I needed to do….flights…visas….admission stuff…insurance…, lots of stuff. Plus, I was thinking about all the plans I had that were now officially cancelled. But of course, all for a good reason.

Watching the sunset from Copacabana beach:


After processing all this in my noggin on the beach for an hour, I started walking back to hostel, and bumped into Chicago amigos on the beach. I think they could tell I was flustered right away! Anyways, that night we all went out to Lapa, had a few drinks, and I just tried to think of nothing at all to clear my head. It was a fun night, filled with stuffing too many people in back seats of cabs and some bad dancing.

The next day was the latest Brazil game. Being in Copacabana, we went to the beach to watch it at the massive FifaFanFest tent that was set up. There were thousands of people there watching on the jumbotrons, decked out in their Brasil gear. The sun was poundingly hot. It was quite the scene. I actually ran into Brian and his girlfriend in the second half of the game, and I asked to stay at his place so I could have real internet and make some phone calls instead of dealing with the crap hostel facilities I was working with.

Their eyes are set on the jumbotron:


One side of FifaFanFest:


Just part of the scene:


Everyone decked out in green, yellow, & blue:



Unfortunately, Brazil lost the game. There was not much hooplah, just a bunch of dejected & stunned people now hoping that Argentina would lose their next game as well. They blamed it on the coach, Dunga, who was fired shortly thereafter. Chicagoan’s proceeded to do touristy things that I have already done, and I spent some time with a little TCB (takin care of business) that afternoon. Then, we went to the most expensive restaurant of my entire trip. Thankfully, it was fejoida, which you can’t go wrong with, and at that point I had realized I had so little time left in Rio, so the price was of no importance. Admittedly, Dulce’s (Brian’s mom) fejoida was much better.

Chicagoan’s did more touristy things the next day. I took in some sun in Copacabana and Flamengo beaches, and made it my mission to enjoy the beach and beautiful scenery as much as possible the next 3 or 4 days. I had purchased a ticket to Brasilia when I arrived in Rio, but had to make a hard decision and decided it was just too much to do in too little time, and I needed to be available to get work done on the program. I headed to Brian’s in the afternoon, and stayed there until I left for the next 4 days.

My last two dinners in South America were hilarious. Second to last night: Restaurant that was extremely American like in which I ordered a ‘Chicago burguer’. Thing TGI Friday’s like. Still trying to figure out what made it Chicago. It was huge, though. Last night: Domino’s pizza for the buy one get one free deal. At least the pizza had Brazilian cheese and toppings. And we drank Guarana soda instead of Pepsi or Coke or Mountain Dew. Either way, both meals were still good. I went to the beach between 2 and 4 hours each day Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday before I left Wednesday, and got a real decent tan (for a gringo). Enjoyed swimming in the ocean in the middle of winter, and had some fresh young green coconuts. Also, I think I had grilled chicken hearts each day the last 3 days…a new favorite food from Brazil.

Next I am going to write a little bit about the barbecue in favela Rocinha that I went to. A place warranting it’s own blog entry & photos.


The fejoida restaurant didn't give us spoons for dessert, so Rocio went with the next best thing:


Theresa tries out fresh coconut juice:


At a kilo buffet with Jorge, eating chicken hearts in addition to other scrumptious items:


How lovely:


Strolling the beach:


In Brazil their forms of persuading you from smoking take a slightly different approach. Back of a cigarette pack:


The funniest sign I have ever seen:

Ultimo Blog

So, this is the final blog entry I'll write in South America. Wow!

What better place to write it than Rio de Janeiro. I've spent nearly 3 weeks in this beautiful city. The blue waters, sandy white beaches, and towering tree covered rock formations never get tiring to look at. The perfect & endless 80 degree mid winter weather is simply a paradise. Plus, I am with Brian and his family...they have been like a second family here, and I have shared some of the best and most unique experiences of my trip with.

Of course, there will be more blog entries in the future. A few from other places in Brazil the past few weeks. Then, some from home. Then, I suppose, the blog can continue as I go to Edinburgh for a semester, Sweden for a semester, and then Belgium for one or two semesters. Whilst studying intensely, I am sure I will manage to go to many places.

From Edinburgh (this is me looking at a map here), I'd love to go to London at least a few times, Northern Ireland, Scottish Countryside, Glasgow, Manchester...from Sweden maybe Copenhagen, Norway, Finland, Estonia, Latvia, Poland..from Belgium to France,Amsterdam & Netherlands... and who knows where else...Just ideas that make the next two years a very exciting prospect.

But I can honestly say I've enjoyed every second of the last 5 months. It was worth it to the nth degree. Met so many amazing people with unlimited generosity from every country I visited, lots whom I may now call friends & hope to see again. Saw many many places, from big metropolises to remote islands to tiny villages. Learned many new things...not just how to speak Spanish and some Portuguese, or how to travel alone (you're never really alone is the answer to that question, everyone should try it), or how to grow a Robinson Crusoe beard, but many other intangible things that I probably can't put in to words. Hands down, this is attributed to the people I met, in the different places I went.

Without a doubt, I'd do it over again.

A Rio Fejoida Birthday

I was very lucky to time my birthday to be staying in Rio, for the second time, with familiar people in Brian and his family. When I informed them of my birthday ahead of time, they began planning. I had mentioned when I arrived that I had wanted to learn to make fejoida, the national dish of brasil, so it was already decided what would be cooked for my birthday.
Well, also, it was already chosen what would be done for my birthday. There was a Brasil world cup game that day. As I’ve mentioned before, the country stops and watches each game. So, it was already decided that we would watch the game at Brian’s place, and his mom would make fejoida.

A few days before my birthday, I went with Dulce to pick out most of the ingredients for fejoida. We picked up the black beans, the white rice, and 6 types of meats. If you’re curious, here are the types of meat that Dulce likes to use in her fejoida (in Portuguese):

Lombo de porco salgado.
Linguica calabresa
Paio
Carne seca (another name: charque)
Costela de porco
Pes de porco
Carne fresco

Basically, that sums up as sausage, a dry meat, a fresh meat, pig feet, bacon/pork fat, and some other miscellaneous meats. We left with a full shopping cart, since Dulce decided to make fejoida for about 15 people! Brian was going to invite some friends over for the game, to enjoy the fejoida, and to celebrate my birthday.

On Friday, Dulce began cooking at about 830 am. Fejoida really does not take too long to cook. We dumped the black beans and uncut meats into two pressure cookers. From there, it was about 20 minutes after they got going. We then dumped the contents of the two pressure cookers into a very large pot, where it was mixed and simmered with sautéed onions and garlic until the flavors settled in. Finally, the meat was removed, cut up, and served on a separate platter from the beans and rice. The fejoida condiments were kale sautéed with bacon bits and garlic, and ground mandioca.

So while Dulce was finishing up the fejoida in the first half of the game, 7 or 8 of us were there, glued to the television, with drinks. Dulce also brought out these tiny espresso cups full of fejoida broth and topped with green onions as a bit of an appetizer, and wow, scrumptious.

Fejoida was ready during halftime, and everyone dug in. Food coma. Good thing Brasil was won the game comfortably, because we did not need to pay to close attention to the game in the second half with the food hangover. After the fejoida, they brought out a load of tangerines. Actually, we ate these after most meals (apparently, it reduces your gas!).
After the game, some more of Brians friends came over. I had met most people my first time around in Rio, so it was good to see people a second time (one of the things I enjoy most about my trip). Then, Dulce brought out a nice chocolate cake. They put a candle on it, and sang happy birthday, first in English, then in Portuguese, of which I understood none. The cake (storebought), was deeeeeelicous.

So, overall it was a great, unique birthday. Soccer, fejoida, and good friends. Here's some photos:

Dulce showing me how fejoida is made:


Two pressure cookers for the fejoida:


Removing the top to see if its done:


Fejaou (sp?) was served as an appetizer. Basically, fejoida broth, that they topped with green onions. Really delicious:


Sauteeing the kale. The fejoida is in the pot on the left:


The finished kale & ground mandioca (falafa they call it):


Served up on the table:


Luiz, Catarina, and Manuel (before chowing down):


Part of the group. Hooray for fejoida and Brasil game:



Gabi and some of her friends stopped in after the game to say hello:


They even bought a cake:

Rio de Janeiro, Parte dois

So I landed in Rio Saturday night. Brian met me at the airport.

Rio from the airplane. You can see the big soccer stadium, Maracana:


Rio from the plane:


Timing was good again, as the next day was the second Brazil world cup match. For this, Brian and I went to his girlfriends apartment. There, many people came over for the game. Mostly family members. By that, I mean, mom, step fathers, step brothers, cousins, some children, and a few friends. Probably about 20 people in total. The whole afternoon, they had drinks passed around to everyone. The hosts made a good effort to keep everyone’s glass topped off with the Brazil beer Itaipava. So by halftime, everyone, regardless of age, was jolly. Also, by halftime, they had the food ready. They had a bunch of sausage that they had chopped up and basically pan fried. Also, they had a bunch of fried chicken that they topped with parsley and chopped green onions, and it was quite delicious.

With Brian, his girlfriend, and two of his friends before Brazil's second game:


The scene in the subway. People are heading to Copacabana beach:



Brian loaned me his dad's vintage Brazil shirt for the game, can't go without wearing yellow (the hat is a joke):


So, as you can imagine, being Brazil, everyone is basically nuts for soccer. Everyone, men & women, knew all the players names, and were pretty loco whenever there was a shot attempt or a penalty called. When a goal was scored, you could hear the air horns and car horns going off in the street. They also show the game at Copacabana beach on a jumbotron. However, they say that the beach at these times is populated mostly by favela kids. So, it just ends up being a lot of people, and maybe not the safest place. Anyways, lots of the streets are decorated with streamers, hanging flags, and things are painted. In fact, they actually have a ‘top 5 decorated streets’ competition.

Another street decorated for World Cup. This is one of the 'top 5':


The same street above at night:


Another Street decorated for World Cup:


Monday, I went with Brian’s mom to a school, where her Rotary club was sponsoring a play to the kids on biodiversity. I probably understood 10%. 20% when I was lucky. But the kids laughed a lot. They were probably no higher than 3rd grade.

I felt guilty for sitting in the front seat in front of all the little kids:


The play at the school:


That night, I went with Brian and his mom to her Rotary meeting. They had sponsored some people from Ohio to come live with their members for one month, so it was their final dinner. I was just the random American that was there it was pretty funny. In addition, I left my dress shoes and dress pants in Argentina when I found out I was not going to teach, so my dress clothes consisted of a decent shirt and tie, jeans, and tennis shoes. Nonetheless, very funny. During the meeting, they wanted to hear more about the project I was involved with with Rotaract Chicago to build emergency services in a town outside Sao Paulo. So I spoke in Portunol for about 5 minutes to 20 or 25 people. It was quite entertaining. Basically, I spoke Spanish and replaced words here and there and changed pronunciation of some words. But, they understood me, which is what counts.

Anderson, me, and Brian:


Today, I went out to lunch with Anderson. We ate at a really good buffet, where you pay by kilo. The last time I ate chicken hearts was here in February. I tried them again, and I must say, still delicious. But otherwise, lots of other good food. Went for a run along the beach (with the beautiful rock/mountains in the bay as a setting), and studied Portuguese and talked to Brians mom (Dulce) in Portunol the rest of the day. Rough, I know.

Friday, they are planning a little party for my Birthday. Dulce is going to make fejoida for us, as well as 6 or 7 of Brians friends that I have met at various times. Tomorrow, we are going to go shopping for the fejoida ingredients, so I am quite excited to learn how to make fejoida from someone who has been making it all their life!

In other random news, I am supposed to hear more official news regarding my scholarship to study fire protection engineering in Europe this week. We shall see.